Despite a dusting of snow earlier this week, all the signs of spring are here, and with the arrival of this season comes ideas of outdoor dining and crisp, easy-drinking wines. The upcoming Wine by Rx Spring Wine Dinner highlights wines from Italy that pair well with spring food and the warmer weather. However, I would be remiss if I did not mention one of the greatest wines of the season - Beaujolais, the light-bodied red wine made from the Gamay Noir grape.
I really like Beaujolais. It is bright, crisp, and pairs fantastically with food. This time of year, when the weather turns warmer and menus are more vernal, it is one of the wines I reach for. Last week, in the midst of gorgeous 70 degree days and 50 degree nights, I enjoyed quite a bit of Beaujolais, and look forward to continuing that trend in the weeks and months ahead.
I was surprised, however, at the perplexed look I received from many people when I told them I was drinking Beaujolais. One person said, "Doesn't that come out in November?" Another person's reply was simply to the effect of not thinking of Beaujolais as a serious wine to drink. Granted, Beaujolais is a light-bodied red wine with little tannin (tannins are the compounds found in oak, grape skins, and grape stems that give structure and astringency to red wine). The low tannin and high acid levels in Beaujolais often cause people to describe it as a red wine that drinks like a white wine.
So, what is Beaujolais and why should you drink it?
Beaujolais is both the name of a winemaking region in France and the eponymous wine which is the classic expression of the Gamay grape. In terms of the region, Beaujolais is the most southern of Burgundy's districts, about 250 miles southeast of Paris. It has a sunny climate with Mediterranean influences. The hierarchy of Beaujolais has three tiers. The first, Beaujolais, is the region's most basic wine: on the whole, it is easy to drink and meant to be consumed young. The next step up are wines labelled Beaujolais-Villages: all of the grapes that are used to produce these wines come from pre-specified areas in the appellation. Finally, at the top are the Beaujolais Crus, of which there are ten (Chénas, Chiroubles, Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié and St.-Amour). These wines are typically of the highest quality from the best vineyard sites; consequently, they are more complex and age-worthy. The northern part of Beaujolais, which encompasses the ten cru sites, is mostly granite-based soil - the best soil type on which Gamay grows.
At their best, the Gamay-based wines of Beaujolais produce light, fresh, and vibrant red wines that contain a dazzling array of fruit and floral aromatics. The acid in the wines is on the higher end of the spectrum, giving crispness to the fruity and aromatic core of Beaujolais. Mind you, these wines are not the Beaujolais Nouveau many people think of when they imagine Beaujolais. The wines I am referring to are devoid of the cloying synthetic aromas of bubblegum, nailpolish remover and bananas that have plagued the image of Beaujolais in years past. The Beaujolais discussed here do undergo whole bunch fermentation and semi-carbonic maceration, although many have more skin contact and may be matured in some oak vessel to add depth and complexity.
Perhaps one of the greatest attributes of Beaujolais is its approachability, in style and mouthfeel as well as price point. One can pick up a good Beaujolais for $15-20 and if you are willing to spend up to $30 you can get a cru Beaujolais from a great producer. This translates into a wine with vibrant fruit and fresh floral aromas, plus earth and mineral notes that bring the wine together, all at a price that will not break your bank.
I really like Beaujolais. It is bright, crisp, and pairs fantastically with food. This time of year, when the weather turns warmer and menus are more vernal, it is one of the wines I reach for. Last week, in the midst of gorgeous 70 degree days and 50 degree nights, I enjoyed quite a bit of Beaujolais, and look forward to continuing that trend in the weeks and months ahead.
I was surprised, however, at the perplexed look I received from many people when I told them I was drinking Beaujolais. One person said, "Doesn't that come out in November?" Another person's reply was simply to the effect of not thinking of Beaujolais as a serious wine to drink. Granted, Beaujolais is a light-bodied red wine with little tannin (tannins are the compounds found in oak, grape skins, and grape stems that give structure and astringency to red wine). The low tannin and high acid levels in Beaujolais often cause people to describe it as a red wine that drinks like a white wine.
So, what is Beaujolais and why should you drink it?
Beaujolais is both the name of a winemaking region in France and the eponymous wine which is the classic expression of the Gamay grape. In terms of the region, Beaujolais is the most southern of Burgundy's districts, about 250 miles southeast of Paris. It has a sunny climate with Mediterranean influences. The hierarchy of Beaujolais has three tiers. The first, Beaujolais, is the region's most basic wine: on the whole, it is easy to drink and meant to be consumed young. The next step up are wines labelled Beaujolais-Villages: all of the grapes that are used to produce these wines come from pre-specified areas in the appellation. Finally, at the top are the Beaujolais Crus, of which there are ten (Chénas, Chiroubles, Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié and St.-Amour). These wines are typically of the highest quality from the best vineyard sites; consequently, they are more complex and age-worthy. The northern part of Beaujolais, which encompasses the ten cru sites, is mostly granite-based soil - the best soil type on which Gamay grows.
At their best, the Gamay-based wines of Beaujolais produce light, fresh, and vibrant red wines that contain a dazzling array of fruit and floral aromatics. The acid in the wines is on the higher end of the spectrum, giving crispness to the fruity and aromatic core of Beaujolais. Mind you, these wines are not the Beaujolais Nouveau many people think of when they imagine Beaujolais. The wines I am referring to are devoid of the cloying synthetic aromas of bubblegum, nailpolish remover and bananas that have plagued the image of Beaujolais in years past. The Beaujolais discussed here do undergo whole bunch fermentation and semi-carbonic maceration, although many have more skin contact and may be matured in some oak vessel to add depth and complexity.
Perhaps one of the greatest attributes of Beaujolais is its approachability, in style and mouthfeel as well as price point. One can pick up a good Beaujolais for $15-20 and if you are willing to spend up to $30 you can get a cru Beaujolais from a great producer. This translates into a wine with vibrant fruit and fresh floral aromas, plus earth and mineral notes that bring the wine together, all at a price that will not break your bank.
Domaine Marcel Lapierre, Raisins Gaulois 2012 ($14) The late Marcel Lapierre was a pioneer in the natural wine movement and a key player in the re-establishment of the reputation of Beaujolais. His son, Mathieu, has been making wine at the domaine since 2010. Raisins Gaulois is the entry-level offering made from the youngest vines of the estate, and simply labelled as a Vin de France. It is an amazing value, and is bursting with tart, fresh raspberries and cherries and a touch of spice and mineral notes. It is thoroughly enjoyable, meant to be drunk now, with a slight chill on it, and pairs with almost any food imaginable. |
| Domaine Marcel Lapierre, Morgon 2012 ($30) If you like the Raisins Gaulois, you will love Domaine Lapierre's cru Beaujolais from Morgon. The wine is made from 70 year-old vines grown on acidic granite soil. The grapes are hand harvested and undergo semi-carbonic maceration with ageing in used French oak. The wine is thoroughly fun to drink - bright, with juicy red fruit but also with a great mineral and earthy component. |
Jean-Paul Brun, Terres Dorées Côte de Brouilly 2012 ($22) Terres Dorées is the estate of Jean-Paul Brun, and this cru Beaujolais is made form 50 year old vines from the Côte de Brouilly. It is downright fantastic - youthful with flavors of cranberry, pomegranate, and red cherry along with a ton of floral aromas. As with other cru Beaujolais, there is a palpable mineral note, which combined with the wine's acidity lends a liveliness and crispness to the entire experience of drinking the wine. |
Pierre-Marie Chermette, Domaine du Vissoux, Fleurie "Les Garants" 2012 ($25) Le Garants is an area of the Fleurie cru that is particularly notable for its granite soil. This cru Beaujolais comes from vines with a southwest exposure, yielding a fuller and more generous mouthfeel. The wine is aged for 6 months in oak (10% new barrels) for added complexity and structure. There are a ton of aromas in this wine - from raspberry to redcurrant and cranberry fruit to notes of lively spices and flowers (roses, violets). It is definitely a wine that will make you rethink your idea of Beaujolais. |